A Frock by Friday™: Tuesday

April 27, 2010

1. Cut down the dotted line of the Ruffle Line Template. I cut a U shape in the template so you could see how it should match up along your seam.









2. Align center line on the center of the bodice. Align E&F in the 1/4" seam allowance you cut in the neckline.










3. With a disappearing marker, tailor's chalk or very light pen, draw a line through the dotted lines from the Ruffle Line Template onto the right side (outside) of your fabric.

4. If you bought interfacing, apply it to the wrong side of the facings now. Then cut to shape of pattern.





5. FINALLY. Now for the good stuff! On the wrong side of the fabric, stitch front bodice darts together. Darts are the triangle cutouts at the bottom of the bodice pieces. Use a 1/4" seam allowance. (See photo to left for reference). Do the same for the back bodice darts. Then iron seams flat.






6. Stitch back bodice to front bodice at sides, right sides together. Iron seams flat.

7. Now for the ruffle. If you have a serger, serge each long side of the ruffle rectangle piece. DO NOT STITCH ANYTHING TOGETHER. You are just encasing the fabric to keep it from fraying. If you don't have a serger just use a zigzag stitch.




8. Sew the short edges with right sides together so that your rectangle is now the same length but thinner. Turn right side out. Iron flat. (see left photo for reference).








9. Gather. If you don't know how to gather your fabric then read on....Stitch 1/4" down from the long edge of the rectangle. When doing this set your sewing machine to the loosest, longest straight stitch. Backstitch at beginning but NOT at the end.

At the end of the stitch, take one of the strings and push down the fabric making a ruffle. Do this until the ruffle is 21" long. Tie ends of thread.

DON'T FORGET TO SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE BACK TO THE ORIGINAL SETTINGS. I always forget.


10. Pin ruffle onto front right side of bodice from A to B. Pin the ruffle so that it lies above the A-B line. (see left image for reference) Stitch to bodice from A to B. Fold down to hide stitching.

11. Okay, now here's the tricky part. When pinning the ruffle from B to C you must twist it a little so that the ruffle lies above the line. Stitch to bodice from B to C. Fold down to hide stitching. Repeat until at point E.

12. Pin remaining ruffle from point E to point F matching
ruffle edge to neck edge. Stitch ruffle ½” from neck edge. Remove gathering threads from ruffle.

13. In case your ruffle was too long, cut off the extra ruffle, fold over and stitch. It won't look as neat but it will look better than having an uneven ruffle.

Here is what is should look like when you're done.




14. Sew bodice front facing and bodice back facing right sides together at side seams.

Iron flat. If you desire, encase the lower edges of the facing in a narrow zigzag stitch.

Done for today!

Tomorrow: Sew an All-In-One Facing and Piecing the Skirt together


Pattern courtesy of The Selfish Seamstress.




24 {comments}:

Eva Girl said... Best Blogger Tips

For any of those who may be sewing this dress with sleeves I'll be posting about that in my blog. (I sew the side seems last so that the sleeve is easier to sew on)

http://theopulentpoppy.blogspot.com/2010/04/coffee-date-dress-start.html

Jenny Lynn said... Best Blogger Tips

Okay, so I'm a little confused about the interfacing...

I've marked my ruffle but I don't know what number 4 means. "Apply it to the wrong side of the facings now. Then cut to shape of pattern" Cut to the shape of the ruffle pattern? And how do I attach it? This is my first time using interfacing so I'm pretty confused about it.

Thanks :)

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Jenny,
Sorry, it sounds a little confusing because we are using the words 'facing' and 'interfacing' and they are two totally different things!

I assumed you bought an iron on interfacing. If you did then just use your iron and place the rough side to your wrong side of your fabric and iron.

If you didn't purchase iron on interfacing then just stitch it to your facing, NOT your ruffle pattern.

Your facing patterns are the ones that are the smallest in curved shapes. See the last photo.

After you have ironed on or sewn the interfacing to the facing just cut out the interfacing from the facing pattern.

I didn't apply the interfacing which is why I don't have a photo to show you so if you really get confused you can just skip that step too.

Ruhammie said... Best Blogger Tips

Woohoo!! I'm gonna go start sewing now...I've blogged about your sew-along and my fabric selection at http://ruhammie.blogspot.com I'm so excited you decided to do this, thank you for sharing!

TheSpanishLady said... Best Blogger Tips

I just found you via MADE and I must say you are my new favorite thing. Seriously think you are awesome.

Jenny Lynn said... Best Blogger Tips

Thank you!
I ended up just leaving it out.
I'm done with Tuesday! And I'm so excited about how well this is coming along. I was pretty apprehensive about being able to actually do this well but so far it's looking good :)

Thank you thank you thank you!!

Mrs. S said... Best Blogger Tips

Kathleen,
That was the first time I ever did a ruffle like this (as far as how you sew it on in order to hide the seam). Even though it took more times than I would like to admit to make it look just right...it was great to learn.
I was wondering what type of fabric you are using? It appears to be shirting and now I have that in my head to try next. If not, do you think that would work well?
Thanks,
April

Michelle Z said... Best Blogger Tips

Just found you today - totally wish i was ready to do this. Please do another "Frock by Friday" - i would love to do it!

Celeste said... Best Blogger Tips

I just found your blog via your maternity tutorials - which are really great - thanks for putting them together. If I was to make this dress maternity style how would you recommend that I do it?

Celeste said... Best Blogger Tips

I found your blog via your maternity tutorials - they are great - thanks for posting them. I made a skirt using your tutorial for jeans and it turned out really well. If I was to make this dress into a maternity dress how would you recommend that I do it?

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Mrs. S,
Yes, it is shirting! And it does work well. Just right I think.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Celeste,
I would shorten the bodice and make the waist as long as the measurements below your bust line.

sfw said... Best Blogger Tips

I was wondering if you have any idea how many people are doing this? You should ask in tomorrow's posting.
I'm excited to be doing it with you. This is a great blog - I love your tutorials.

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

Hey, I'm joining in the fun and making one of these, but would love to know where to go and visit the others when they are done. Do you think we could have a Mr. Linky party when we're done (on Saturday) and have everyone blog about it and link up so we can check out everyone's awesome dresses?

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Anonymous,
I was planning on posting on the final day to ask all those who sewed along to post their dress to Grosgrain flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/grosgrain/

Jo - To a Pretty Life said... Best Blogger Tips

I decided to do the lining as you suggested by treating it and the dress material as one piece. It's working well so far. Much easier than the other way.

But is my bodice supposed to overlap 3-4 inches in the back when I try it on? Should I take it in on the sides, or will that be corrected later?

If so, I think I need to have my mom (a retired seamstress) come over to fix the fit. I am doing size 42 based on my measurements and the Burda size chart.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Jo,
That's funny, mine was 3-4" too small in the bodice which I discuss on Wednesday. If yours is too large I would suggest just snipping the back until it overlaps by only about an inch.

But if your mom comes over I'm sure she will have a much more cleaner and professional suggestion, so you might want to wait for her, but that's my easy fix.

Just remember that it must match up at the waist to your skirt piece. In other words be sure that the bottom of the bodice and the top of the skirt are the same length. If you have to trim your skirt in the back, do that too.

Shirley said... Best Blogger Tips

Thanks for all your great instructions! I've decided to use a knit - I know naughty - but I gotta try. Who knows it just may turn out.

If not, then we'll all have a good laugh and you can tell me, 'Follow the instructions next time!'

phalloeun @ growing grandbergs said... Best Blogger Tips

Thank you so much for breaking this down day by day. I am new to sewing so a project like this could be soooo intimidating. I am attempting this for my sister's bday next week. Hope it works out!

by night said... Best Blogger Tips

I just discovered your blog (I know - it's about time...but I am addicted already!) and wow, what a lovely idea to sew this dress all together. Too bad I missed the beginning... I would have loved to sew along! thank you for your generosity!

Heidi said... Best Blogger Tips

Hi, my darts in the front of the dress are higher up than what I am (if you know what I mean). How do I lower them?

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Heidi,
Since we already cut the pattern out you won't be able to fix the darts to be lower. However, I want to add that when the skirt is sewed on it really does pull the bodice down more than you'd think. Mine looked way to high as well but I think it came out okay.

If you want to be on the safe side the next time you sew a dress, don't cut the triangle darts out. Just mark where each point is on the pattern and connect the dots. Sew up the lines you just made. That way if it's not right for you, all you have to do is rip out the seam and change the placement of stitch.

When you have it right, then cut the fold.

Heidi said... Best Blogger Tips

thank you, I'll have to remember that for next time. I just finished the dress, so I'll make it works. thanks!

The Cast-Iron Darling said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm just joining the party now! I have a question - I noticed you used the word "stitch" instead of "sew" when attaching the ruffle to the front bodice. Does this imply that we should be hand-stitching the ruffle? Or are we sewing it on the machine? I just don't want to mess this up, or my machine!
Thanks for the tutorial! :)

 
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