Frock by Friday: Monday

May 17, 2010

1. Print out the multisized pattern. The collar is missing but use this collar pattern instead. AT 100%, NO PAGE SCALING!

Just post any questions in the comments section and I will try to answer them in the comments section. And remember for the next few steps BE SURE........to please overlook my ugly kitchen vinyl flooring:)

Find a wide flat space to spread out. It must be a space of at least 4.5'x4'.

2. Arrange the papers in numerical order. 1-4 (top row) 5-8 (second row) and so on....

Match the fine vertical lines together so that the papers overlap on each long side.






There's no fine lines on the tops and bottoms so just overlap the bottom and tops of each paper by 5/8th.
I also had to extend piece 31 by 6.5 inches because the piece that is missing the collar is also missing the bottom of piece 31. I added the extra inches by taping two pieces of paper at the bottom and measuring 7" down and made a mark. I then overlapped the papers by .5" in top and drew in the rest of the pattern.

3. Tape together. I used packing tape. It's nice and wide. I found it was easiest to tape the horizontal rows first then tape the rows together.

I know working with a printable PDF file seems super inconvenient but I actually PREFER them to storebought patterns. If you ever want to use the PDF pattern again just print out the piece you need. Storebought tissue patterns are always getting ripped or wrinkled or lost. Plus if you ever want to sort through your patterns, it's easier to do it on the computer rather than digging through a pile of envelopes, pulling out all the tissue sheets, finding your piece, then folding the tissue paper in just the right way to fit it back in the envelope.

4. Once you have everything taped then cut out all the pieces. I usually leave a lot of white area around my patterns when I cut them from the paper and then cut around the lines after I pin it to my fabric.


5. My material didn't arrive yet so bear with me while I use muslin. If you need to zoom in on a picture just click on it and it will take you to a larger version.

For this pattern you must take your 2 yards of material and open it up. Turn it so that the edge that was cut at the store is on the left side and not the bottom. Then fold the two sides in to the middle so that you have folds on either side of your fabric.

6. Place your patterns on the fabric like so (see picture to left). Make sure than the straight edges of the patterns are on the folds of your fabric. Then cut out adding seam allowances.

Take the yoke piece (the smallest of the three pieces) and cut it again on another fold (under the piece to the left) so that you have 2 pieces.

7. Cut out belt tie: 2"x57" adding seam allowances

8. Cut out 2 belt loops: .8"x4.7"
adding seam allowances

9. Cut out the button band from the fabric.
It is 2.2" x37.5 - 41.3" depending on your size.

10. Cut out the belt tie: 2"x57"

11. Take the collar and sleeve material and fold it in half lenthwise then fold it in half again widthwise so that you have four layers of fabric.

12. Arrange them on the fabric like so (see picture to left). Be sure that the collar's straight edge lies on the fold. And cut out
adding seam allowances. Discard extra collar piece.

DONE for today!

61 {comments}:

stella said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm so excited. I found the perfect fabric this weekend! Even the buttons were spot on for this dress. I'll be posting my finds later in the day on my blog. Thanks so much again for doing this sew along!

Laura said... Best Blogger Tips

nice pictures!! xxx

http://lalalalaaaura.blogspot.com/

Heidi said... Best Blogger Tips

I would like my skirt for this dress to be full like that pic of that charcoal sleeveless shirt dress you posted a few days ago. How do I go about adjust the pattern to make that type? thanks!

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Heidi,
If you would like to do that I would recommend printing a pattern with an A-line skirt piece. Like this free one:
http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/variation-of-7979-for-claire

Lay the front skirt piece on top of the front piece of the bernina pattern to make a new shape.

Do the same for the back piece.

We live in a Zoo! said... Best Blogger Tips

What kind of fabric should I be using?

Stella said... Best Blogger Tips

I've posted my fabric and button choice, but I think I'll go for the a-line skirt as well. I just realized my printer is at work so it looks like I'll be doing two steps tomorrow.

www.pitchinwoo.com

Mad Sewing Love said... Best Blogger Tips

I'd love to do this with you but everytime I click on the pattern link my internet shuts down. I have tried to link to Bernina in the past from your site & the same thing always happens. ?? Confused. Help!

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Mad Sewing Love,
Just send me your email address and I will send it to you.

Mad Sewing Love said... Best Blogger Tips

Awesome! You can send to MadSewingLove@yahoo.com

Thanks a mil!

Rhonda

Rachel said... Best Blogger Tips

Did anyone else do a double take when she measured the pattern pieces? Maybe I printed it too large (though I'm not sure how I would have; I printed 100% no scaling) but I found the size 38 would be 41.5 inches at the waist!

I scaled it down for me (35" bust). And I'm psyched for this project. Can't wait to post pics of my cloth and buttons on my blog!

Kati said... Best Blogger Tips

Which pieces do we cut out of the contrast and which pieces do we cut out of our main fabric?

I'm also unable to open the instructions

Debra said... Best Blogger Tips

I am ready to print out the pattern at 100% scaling. There is a box on one of the pieces that indicates 15cm x 15cm. Is that what the box should measure when I print out the pattern? Thank you for doing this! I have not sewn a dress in years and am so excited!

Mama Slice said... Best Blogger Tips

I've been looking at your blog all morning waiting for your post. hahah. I actually went and did a "coffee date" dress this weekend from your previous frock by friday. :) I felt like I had to catch up to the rest of you gals since I JUST found your blog. :) It was so fun making something for myself. I'm excited to start this new one too.

www.mamaslice.blogspot.com

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Debra,
Yes, that is what that means.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Kati,
The collar and sleeve pieces you cut out of the contrasting fabric.

Also, cut out the button band from the fabric. It is 2.2" x37.5 - 41.3" depending on your size.

And cut out the belt tie: 2"x57"

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

Kathleen are you sure this pattern comes in size 34? The instructions say sizes 36 - 44 46. There are only six sizes (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 = 7 sizes). I'm not sure I need a size 34, but I might.
I measured myself before making the coffee date dress and thought I needed a 36, but the 32 ended up the best fit. So I might need to make this dress in a small size as well.

Would it be possible to change the collar? I'd like my collar the look like the one on the white dress with the blue belt you posted a picture of.

Ramona Burke said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm sooooo excited! I have my fabric in the washing machine right now, so I'll be able to cut it out tonight! (assuming I fix the printer problems I'm having, totally unrelated to the patterns...)... PS, did everyone notice that the selfish seamstress just posted a new free pattern? can we do that next?

Chandlers said... Best Blogger Tips

Thank you for all of the work you out into this. I can't wait. I have everything cut out but I would love a little more substantial sleeve. Do you have any sleeve patterns you could recommend?

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

is it possible to make a lining? I can't find fabric that's not see-through

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Anonymous,
With the last dress someone else had the same problem. I recommended layering another piece of fabric on top of the pieces.

She said it worked out well.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Chandlers,
I suggested this sleeve pattern:
http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/kristen-plus--2

with the last dress. It is for a plus size so if you are smaller, like me, take the pattern in by 3/8” at the underarm seam for every 2 sizes and follow lines accordingly. Tape pattern together, cut out. Pin to doubled fabric and cut out of fabric. Sew hem of sleeve 1/2". Sew underarm hems together, right sides facing.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Anonymous,
If you go to the legend on Page 3 it shows what each of the lines should stand for. HOWEVER, you are right it seems to be missing a size. The weird thing is that a few of those weird squiggly lines aren't even on the pattern.

So indeed one size is missing but I can't tell for sure which one it is. If you think it's going to be too big just don't add the seam allowances.

Samina said... Best Blogger Tips

Stupid Q, but is the no-scaling for the collar pattern only, or all of the dress pattern too?

Erin said... Best Blogger Tips

Hi
earlier you said that you would show how to make the seam longer. Just wanted to check if it was going to be out of the main fabric, do we cut it out now too?
thanks!

Sandra said... Best Blogger Tips

Wow I love this Frock by Friday idea! I've just found your blog via Selfish Seamstress and I'm hooked. Like you I'm a SAHM (but only 2 girls!) and spend my time sewing and dress making for the 3 of us. I love love love your creations!

Chandlers said... Best Blogger Tips

Thank you for your very detailed instructions. You are so very patient with us. Thanks again.

Jen Schumann said... Best Blogger Tips

Is there some sort of sizing chart that correlates to measurements? Not sure what size I would be. Thanks! I am so excited to try this.

ElizabethK. said... Best Blogger Tips

I take it this pattern comes with seam allowances? I started taping my pattern together last night, because I won't have a lot of time this week. I can't wait to begin!

Also, is there a yoke on the back? It shows in the instructions, but not on the pattern? Pockets, too.

Thank you so much for your tutorials and help!

jennifer said... Best Blogger Tips

....okay i have a couple of questions first i would like to use the fuller skirt variation that you suggested i can get to it on the website but when i click to print it nothing happens, i tried to print another one from there just to make sure it was not my pritner and worked fine??? So if i use the fuller skirt how much yardage do i need still 2 yards? Do you think you could do a variation with a sleeve? Lastly, with the way that the fabric is folded when you cut it may not work with all prints can you fold it top to bottom if the print is directional that way??? Am ready to get started just need that skirt variation so i won't be a day behind :) THANKS, Jenn

Rachel said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm trying to make the ivory/white colored dress with the blue belt- how do you recommend I make the collar? Thanks!

Rachel

Rachel said... Best Blogger Tips

oh, and the sleeve. How can I alter the sleeves? Thanks again.

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm so excited to be doing this with you, thank you so much for the opportunity. I am very new at patterns and I have a simple question. When you say to cut with seam allowance, does that mean I don't cut on the line for my size but cut it a little bit bigger? Thank you so much!
Amy

ElizabethK. said... Best Blogger Tips

I cut my fabric out tonight, and realized that there IS only one yoke piece. :)

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Amy,
Yes, you are right about the seam allowance.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Rachel,
I included a collar pattern in the beginning of the post, use that.

As for the sleeves, I suggested this sleeve pattern:
http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/kristen-plus--2

with the last dress. It is for a plus size so if you are smaller, like me, take the pattern in by 3/8” at the underarm seam for every 2 sizes and follow lines accordingly. Tape pattern together, cut out. Pin to doubled fabric and cut out of fabric. Sew hem of sleeve 1/2". Sew underarm hems together, right sides facing.

Rachel said... Best Blogger Tips

Thank you,thank you! Now I'm ready to cut :)

Rachel

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Jenn,
So if i use the fuller skirt how much yardage do i need still 2 yards?

If you do the fuller skirt I would suggest getting 4 yards. You're going to end up with a lot of extra fabric but since you have to cut everything on the fold it really limits the way you can arrange the pattern.

As for the prints issue, if you buy the extra yards you won't have to worry about the direction issue.

As for the sleeves, I suggested this sleeve pattern:
http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/kristen-plus--2

with the last dress. It is for a plus size so if you are smaller, like me, take the pattern in by 3/8” at the underarm seam for every 2 sizes and follow lines accordingly. Tape pattern together, cut out. Pin to doubled fabric and cut out of fabric. Sew hem of sleeve 1/2". Sew underarm hems together, right sides facing.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Elizabeth,
You should add the seam allowances yourself.

And yes, you must cut two yokes. I arranged it so that I cut a yoke at the top right of the fabric and then took the pattern and cut another yoke at the bottom left.

I'll get to the pockets later in the week:)

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Erin,
Yes. If you would like to make your dress longer, just extend the bottom the same way you extended piece 31 in step 2, third paragraph down.

But remember that you must add the yoke pieces to the top eventually so the dress will be a little longer than just the front and back pieces.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Samina,
You should always do 'no scaling' for patterns. To be sure you printed it correctly there is a square on the pattern that says 15cm x 15cm. Measure it to make sure it is 15cm. If it is, you printed correctly.

15cm is 5.9 in.

Asset Management Melbourne said... Best Blogger Tips

learnt a lot, this is a good blog

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Jen Schumann,
On page 3 of the pattern there is a size chart. Just remember to convert the cm to inches.

sewconvert said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm guessing the third line in the sewing pattern is for size 38:) Fabric all cut and ready for tomorrow. Thanks so much for this sewalong!

sewconvert said... Best Blogger Tips

While cutting my fabric today, I managed to take some photos on how I added the seam allowance. If anyone is interested, it's on my blog http://sewconvert.wordpress.com

kellyne5565 said... Best Blogger Tips

Hello! I just found your website and I love it! Any chance you'll be doing patterns or tutorials for the state fair dress or the social darling dress? They're gorgeous and if you have tutorials up or patterns for sale soon you can count me in!

EHC said... Best Blogger Tips

Maybe I've been watching too many Project Runway reruns, but I've been calling this dress the "Auf Wiedersehen Dress" since it's a Bernina Switzerland pattern and this dress is so cute it looks like you're going places! Frock by Friday #2 just wasn't a fun enough name and I thought it should be catchy like last time.

Ane Oti said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm confused!?!?!
should I wash the fabric b4 cutting??? I didn't washed mine and now I'm worried about it after I saw someone saying that they were washing.
You think this will be a problem???

Thanks!
Ane

Ruhammie said... Best Blogger Tips

Hi Kathleen,
Mine printed a little goofy and caused me to overlap differently, can you provide what the total length down the fold side of the pattern will be? For the fuller skirt pattern, is there a secret to getting it to print on multiple pages vs. just one?
Thank you so much!
Ramie

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Ane Oti,
I don't wash my fabric but then again I don't put it through the wash cycle...ever. And I especially don't put it in the dryer. I either dry clean or hand wash my homemade clothes.

If you want to be able to wash your homemade clothes the same way you do your other clothes I would recommend washing your fabric beforehand. If you've already cut, just remember to wash on the gentle cycle and let air dry.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Ruhammie,
Piece 32 should be 34.5" down the folded side from the largest size down.
Piece 31 should be 37" from the largest size down.

As for the full skirt pattern, I'm emailing burdastyle about it. Usually they have two separate links. One to print from home, one to print from copy shop. It looks like that pdf is to print from a copy shop.

I'll let you know what they say.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

Ruhammie,
I went ahead and made the multiple page pdf from adobe illustrator myself. If you'd like it just send me your email address:
mytumtumtree@gmail.com

It's 40 pages all together so would you like me to just send you the pages with the skirt piece?

Laurence said... Best Blogger Tips

Hi! I have a problem... When I tried to print the pattern, the test square (15cm) measures 14 cm... Would you have an idea of what I could do?

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

I have the same problem- when I print, it doesn't print the correct scale. The 15x15cm box is measuring 13x13cm...any ideas on how to make it print correctly?
amy

Laurence said... Best Blogger Tips

Printing problem solved... You go in "File" and "Page setup" and you play a bit with the %. I guess that's not the perfect way but it worked fpr me... 15 became 15!

teetaxx said... Best Blogger Tips

hi love im reetaxx

lajamison said... Best Blogger Tips

Why is it that we turn the fabric and put the edges into the center and then put the pieces on the fold. Why do we just not make a fold and cut? Thanks for your help.

Kathleen Frances said... Best Blogger Tips

lajamison,
I did that to reduce the amount of fabric you have to buy. You can fold it down the middle if you'd like but you will have to buy about two more yards of fabric.

Sarah said... Best Blogger Tips

Yaay!!! I'm so excited! Thank you so much for doing this - all the work you put into it does not go unnoticed!

One question - I have everything all cut out except for my button placket. I'm not sure how to know which length I need it to be.

A tip would be much appreciated!

Thank you again!

Sarah

Refugee Crafter said... Best Blogger Tips

I just printed out my pattern and realized that this pattern is formatted for A4 paper size. (It's the standard paper size for most countries outside the US and is basically around three quarters of an inch longer.) If your printer is like mine it will center the page vertically so the guide lines on the top and bottom will lie just outside the printable area on the paper and won't appear on the printed pattern.

So this all means that instead of overlapping your pattern pieces three eighths of an inch on the top and bottom, they should overlap about an eighth of an inch. If you have already cut your fabric, don't worry too much, it shouldn't make too much of an effect on the side seams, but you will need to lower the underarm seam on the back piece.

Anonymous said... Best Blogger Tips

I'm having a hard time finding the collar...I know this sew along was a while ago. Could you send me a link to the "Collar" pattern. Thanks! casaclarke@me.com

Katie said... Best Blogger Tips

Hello! Way behind the trend, but could you please email me the collar pattern as well? Thanks so much!

kmcooper888@gmail.com

 
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...